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'Bad' hair is coarse, kinky, coiled short and 'nappy'. Such beliefs are obviously derived from a narrow residency definition of beauty that is marketed and promoted residency in America's fashion and beauty industry. Their power as a race-based measurement, however, goes beyond a personal statement of choice in approaches to hairstyle and exposes the social and political implications for African American culture.The cultural historian Bruce Tyler describes how African Americans in the nineteenth-century were encouraged to adopt 'proper conduct and residency grooming standards' (4). It was believed that these would promote their assimilation into American culture and thereby improve their status in society. When female slaves attempted to change their nappy hair into good hair, they were hoping for inclusion through an imitation of Western beauty standards. Hair was slicked in waves with axle grease, wrapped with string to make it straight and relaxed using concoctions of potato, potash, lye and hot fat.
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